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cheaper Korean spirit that, while similar, doesn’t match shochu’s
flavour or complexity, in her opinion.
“I thought, well, that’s a real shame. So, the best way to get
around that is to make it here.”
Unfortunately, the LCBO still doesn’t carry shochu, despite
Pantazi’s efforts to get White Dragon into its stores.
“Their opinion is that there’s not a market for high-end
shochu. But I disagree, because it sells so well at our store. The
people who come and discover it, love it.”
Outside Alberta, Canada’s retail liquor market presents
a challenging landscape for innovative or niche products,
explained Jan Westcott, president and CEO of Spirits Canada.
Most provincial liquor boards have a “one-for-one” policy—if
they add one product to their catalogues, they have to remove
a product to make room. As a result, they generally require a
great deal of convincing.
“As an importer or agent, what are you going to do in my
marketplace to make sure that the sales of your product actually
take off? Are you going to advertise? Are you going to put
people in the stores to do tastings? How much money are you
going to spend? What’s your marketing plan? How are you
going to get consumers to come into my stores and pick this up
off the shelf?”
That said, Westcott sees some positive signs for the growth
of shochu in Canada. Even though shochu accounts for a mere
700 cases a year in a market of 16 million cases, those 700
cases represent 14 or 15 different products.
“That’s pretty amazing,” observed Westcott. “It speaks
to the fact that, in Japan particularly, the shochu business is
very robust.”
Angela Lum, investment attraction manager for southern
Alberta with Alberta Agriculture and Rural Development
(AARD), said her department recognizes the potential for
shochu development in North America.
As our population ages, Lum suggested, consumers may look
for lower-carb, lower-alcohol drinks.
“There is also an increasing interest in Japanese culture and
authentic dining experiences here in North America,” she added.
Both Law and Lum see potential for a shochu company to
set up shop in Alberta. In Japan, Canada enjoys a reputation as
a land of blue skies, endless rolling plains and snow-capped
mountains. A Japanese distiller, using premium Alberta barley
and clean water from pristine Rocky Mountain glaciers, could
develop an exceptional product.
“Alberta is looking for value-added opportunities to bring to
its growers,” enthused Lum. “Companies would be close to raw
materials and efficient logistics to a growing market in the Pacific
Northwest.”
If you walk into a liquor store a decade or two from now, you
might very well find an entire shochu section—with a made-in-
Alberta option on the top shelf.
The Food Issue
2014
Grains
West
32
Feature
“Shochus have a lighter, cleaner taste, and I
feel it goes better with [Korean or Japanese] food.”
– Sophia Pantazi